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Zombiepedia:Sandbox
This page is for any tests. Welcome to the sandbox! Anyone can edit this. Alternate Sandboxes *Sandbox 2 *Sandbox 3 *Sandbox 4 *Sandbox 5 *Sandbox 6 *Sandbox 7 Simple Editing To edit a page, click on the "edit" tab, usually near the top of the page. Then, edit the box in the page. Feel free to practice here, on this page. It's here just for you to practice. A blank line indicates a paragraph separation. WICKY WOO!rtyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyrttdvc x g iuyhnbgvdgftgvbgbfcs You can link to another page by putting the name or title of that page in double square brackets. Main Page becomes Main Page. Simple Formatting Create headers by putting text inbetween repeated equal (=) signs. The more =, the lower level the heading is. Create a bulleted list by starting each item with an asterick (*) * it's ok to make editing mistakes * you can preview your work before saving it * even after saving it, you or someone else can edit it again to make it even better Formatting for Emphasis Put single quote marks around words or phrases for formatting emphasis. Two single quotes, like italics will create italics. Three single quotes, like bold text will create bold text. http://machinejunky.com/images/rifle-ammunition-guide/ Gunpowder Making There are three basic chemicals in gunpowder: Potassium Nitrate (saltpeter), Charcoal powder, and Sulfur powder. Gunpowder would be a lot simpler to make if you could just mix the three chemicals together in the right ratio and have the final product, however chemistry doesn’t always work that way. If you look at a piece of charcoal under a microscope you can see very tiny holes called pores. Even when the charcoal is ground up into a fine powder each particle of it still contains microscopic pores. To properly make gunpowder the particles of charcoal must be ground together with the potassium nitrate and sulfur, the process of grinding those smashes the potassium nitrate and sulfur into the pores of the charcoal creating a substance that will readily burn when ignited.You will need: 1. Ball mill (make sure you also buy lead grinding media) 2. Scale 3. Potassium nitrate, Sulfur powder, and Charcoal powder. (when buying try to buy as close to 5x as much potassium nitrate as charcoal powder, and 2/3 as much sulfur as charcoal.) 4. Tupperware container 5. Calculator (To measure the amount of chemical to use). As long as you always follow the 75:15:10 ratio of potassium nitrate: charcoal powder: sulfur powder you can make any amount of gunpowder necessary. First, determine the necessary amount and mix the chemicals accordingly, or make a large batch and save it for future use (I do it this way). A decent sized batch would be 300 grams potassium nitrate, 60 grams charcoal powder, and 40 grams sulfur powder. 1. If you are using an electric scale, place a container (I use Dixie plastic cups) on it to measure the chemicals into. Then press and hold the “tare” button and it will take the added weight into account and set it to zero (meaning the weight of the cup won’t be taken into effect when you measure out the weight of the chemicals) 2. Measure the proper amount of each chemical, one chemical at a time, into the cups and then empty each cup into the ball mill. 3. When all 3 chemicals are in the ball mill grinding chamber seal it and turn it on.2. Turn it on and wait: The title of this step says it all. Two hours is the standard amount of time to let it grind, but you can leave it on for longer to get a slightly higher grain powder. Basic Helicopter Knowledge Rotors on the top of a helicopter can make it take off and land vertically, and it can also maneuver in several directions; and, it can even hover. 1. On the pilot’s left, there’s a lever called the collective pitch stick, and it has a twisting handle that controls the height of the helicopter. 2. Directly in front of the pilot is a joystick called the cyclic pitch; turn it in order to go in any direction. 3. at the pilot’s feet are 2 pedals that, when pressed, rotate the helicopter. Concrete: Wall Making From Scratch 1. Portions to 1 sack cement: 2 ½ cubic feet sand, 3 ½ cubic feet small gravel, 6 ½ gallons water. 2. Making concrete: first, turn on your concrete mixer, second, add in the cement, third, add in dry ingredients one at a time, adding water each time, and let it run for 45 minutes before using. 2. Building the Wall: hammer iron rods into the 18 in wide, 2ft deep trench, every 4 ft., next fill with concrete, and then let harden for 1 week, and then continue construction by stacking cinderblocks held together with concrete around the edges and put the cinderblocks' cells into the iron rodsand do the same for the whole wall. Before filling with concrete,you must "paste" the cinderblocks together with mortar and wait 1 week for the mortar to dry before filling the blocks with concrete mix. finally, wait about a month and bam: you've now got a zombie-proof wall. General Rules of Combat #Only engage in attacking the undead if absolutely nessesary (home defense, getting to a vehicle, if you're cornered, etc.) in order to conserve ammunition and prevent unnecessary casualties. #If possible, always wear armor; you can never really know who's been bitten unless they admit to it. #Set traps: zombies typically have little to no reasoning or intelligence, so they fall for the simplest of tricks. #Watch out for severed zombie heads. If the brain is intact, the heads can still bite. #Use silent weapons to avoid attracting more zombies to your position. Such weapons include silenced handguns, bladed weapons, or the crossbow. Clearing Infected Multiple-Story Buildings And What To Do Afterward #Always work your way down from the roof, because zombies usualy walk around on the bottommost floors. #Locate your inner sanctum if the infected prove too difficult to kill just yet. #Go outside and seal the entrances in the same way as in the original Dawn Of The Dead (one door at a time; with large, durable vehicles such as semi trucks or busses to keep more infected from geting in). #Kill some zombies on the upper floors (the ones closest to your inner sanctum) then work your way outward and downward. #Be sure to check every nook and crany before scavenging inside the building. #Never go it alone. Always stay in a small group. #Learn your way around the building, and be sure to make maps for each floor #Scavenge for suplies, and remember that even trash has it's uses #Move the bodies and isolate them into a very finite area, and burn only if you're environment is non-flamable. #Further barricade the inside, and reinforce all entryways and exits, permanantly, exept for two, wich can be more teporarily barricated, just in case the building gets overrun again. #Scout, then scavenge the surrounding areas for supplies and make your innersanctum more compfortable and secure, then after that, do the same to other buildings and eventually you'll retake whole cities and potentially meet other survivors along the way. Quick Weapon Guide #Distance over devistation is a good policy: AK-47 over grenade.Grenades are rather wasteful things to use because most shrapnell is centered around the torsos of the infected, while destuction of the brain is required for kills. #Assault rifles have their ups and downs: the ak platform is more dependable and durable, but bulkier than the m-16 platform. The Ak is typically less acurate than the M16, but I personally belive that the m16 is designed to be cheap to make, and easily replacable, while the Ak is built to last. #With select-fire weapons, never use three round burst or full auto. It's dangerous to the living memers of your party, and it's a good way to run out of ammo when you need it most. Semi-auto is always best. #Assault rifles? usually have 30 round magazines, and either .22 or .45 caliber rounds. Shotguns can have anywere from 1-10 slugs or shells, and there are several sub-catagories such as pump-action, lever-action, and single-shot. Handguns can range from 1 to 20 rounds, and once again there are sub-catagories: pistol, and revolover. ? Gardening for new preppers Carrots: They can be eaten at any point in the harvest and they are shelf stable if properly stored. The time to plant them is from April to June. They fully mature around 80 days after being planted if taken care of properly. Place individual seeds ¼ of an inch deep in soil, 3in apart, in rows 2 feet apart. One 50 foot row can feed 1 person for an entire season, and it is best to keep several rows just in case you need to re-plant. Water 1.5 liters for every 25 foot row 3 times a week, this is necessary for the plant’s survival. ?